EVERYONE’S looking for the secret to blemish-free skin that won’t age.
But listen to the wrong advice, and you could end up wasting your time, cash, or even worsening your skin.
Dr Qian Xu, founder and Medical Director of Skin Aesthetics, is always aware of the latest skincare trends, as well as “old wives’ tales”.
The dermatologist has revealed which myths about skincare have gained traction despite having no truth to them.
Myth 1: You don’t need to wear sunscreen if your makeup has SPF
You may have been drawn to buy your foundation because it has the bonus of SPF – an ingredient that protects the skin from sun rays.
Many beauty brands are offering upgraded products with SPF in, as its protective affects are beneficial for anti-ageing.
But Dr Qian said: “While the extra sun protection in your make up is a bonus, it shouldn’t be your main point of defence against the sun.
“We never apply enough makeup to provide sufficient SPF coverage during the day.
“Your makeup may also not provide protection from both UVA and UVB rays. So, stick to a broad-spectrum sunscreen and reapply it liberally throughout the day.”
Experts say you should wear SPF even on a cloudy grey day.
Myth 2: The more you wash your face, the cleaner and healthier your skin is
If you’re skin is having a “moment”, you might be inclined to wash it more often.
But you could be doing more harm than good, Dr Qian said, as over-washing can cause dry, irritated skin that is vulnerable to breakouts and infections.
It will also “cause the oil glands in the skin to produce extra sebum”.
Dr Qian said: “To keep the skin’s natural barrier unharmed and glowing, I recommend using a simple, non-exfoliating face wash morning and evening.”
Myth 3: Facial wipes can remove makeup
It’s controversial, but Dr Qian backs claims that you should never use facial wipes to remove your makeup.
She said: “These wipes are actually not designed to cleanse your skin and should not be used as your primary method of makeup removal.
“The chemicals in them to keep them moist also coat your skin so will gradually block your pores. These wipes are handy for emergencies only.”
Myth 4: Vitamin E fades scars
A popular belief is that by rubbing vitamin E into a scar, it’ll fade over time – but Dr Qian said it will “do nothing”.
Dr Qian said: “Time does the most to fade scars though creams and lotions with hyaluronic acid, retinols, and the medication tretinoin can help to reduce the appearance of scars.
“Laser therapy and microneedling to encourage collagen and elastin production can help with scar reduction.”
If there’s anything you can do for scars, it’s to “avoid direct exposure to the sun as scars tend to darken with sunlight”, Dr Qian said.
Myth 5: You can shrink your pores
Dr Qian said it’s not true that you can make your pores smaller – which is unchangeable due to genetics, age and skin type.
“As we age our pores can start to appear larger due to our skin slowing down production of collagen and losing its elasticity,” she said.
“This stretches and sags the skin making our pores look bigger.
“We have two types of pores, one releases natural oils and the other sweat. Sometimes the oil-releasing pores can appear enlarged.”
While it’s not possible to make pores smaller, you can minimise the appearance of them by using monthly facials, Dr Qian claimed.
Myth 6: You can use the same products for your day and night routines
There’s a reason creams are labelled “day” and “night” – and you should stick to it.
Dr Qian said: “During the day your skin is in ‘protect’ mode and you should help it by using products that offer defence from free radicals and sunscreen.
“At night your skin is no longer warding off pollutants and the sun so your night-time products should be more restorative.
“Retinol for example should only be used at night as it encourages cell turnover.”
The only product Dr Qian said could be used both day and night is a gentle cleanser.
Myth 7: Budget skincare products are just as effective as expensive ones
You get what you pay for, as Dr Qian said: “Whilst it might not be initially obvious, over time it becomes apparent.
“Some poor-quality skincare ingredients can have an adverse effect on the skin in the long term, particularly synthetic ingredients which have been known to build up toxicity in the skin over time.”
It’s not possible for most people to have a shelf of luxury skincare products.
But you don’t need it, Dr Qian said, adding: “Your skin only needs a couple of quality products to survive, so invest in a quality cleanser and broad-spectrum sunscreen.”
Myth 8: People with oily skin don’t need to moisturise
People with oily skin may worry that adding more moisture to their face is a bad idea.
But Dr Qian said it’s in fact the opposite – avoiding moisturiser will make the face even oilier.
She said: “You do need to moisturise at least once a day.
“This is because the oil glands in the skin go into overdrive to compensate for being dehydrated making your skin feel even oilier.
“If you have oily skin then use a lightweight moisturiser that is non comedogenic so that they are less likely to clog pores.”