I’m in a hair rut. I’m tired of my current style but I don’t know what to do with it next. Change the color? Change the cut? Go natural and let my hair decide? All I know is that I am BORED. But until I have a plan, I don’t want to do anything drastic (like the winter I had purple hair in high school). Ideally, whatever I do, it doesn’t jeopardize the health of my hair (again… the winter I had purple hair in high school). So, I’m taking preventative measures. After obsessively googling heat protectants, I feel like an expert on every product, supplement, and treatment for hair health. Turns out, you can use essential oils for thicker, longer, and shinier hair. That’s right: good things do come in threes.

I don’t know about you, but I go through the same old cycle every time I do anything with my hair. I love the new style for a while, but the second it starts to grow out, I get frustrated. The in-between period is impossible to work with and I’m itching for the next change. Each time I find myself in this position, I try every new hair-growth fad to coax the hair out of my follicles faster.

Oil training? Rice water? Salt scrubs? I’ve tried it all. And I’m sure we all fell into at least one of these traps after two years of quarantine cuts. I personally blame TikTok for my less-than-successful experiments, but all those fruitless endeavors left me more selective about the products I use. This has meant researching what ingredients will give me longer hair in the long run. One of the answers? Essential oils.

As I dive deeper into my commitment to using mostly clean beauty products, I’m swapping out my old hair products for new ones. Many of my new finds combine powerful clean ingredients with a cocktail of essential oils for thicker and longer hair, plus a healthier scalp.

To speak on this less exhausting way to finally achieve the shiny, full head of hair I’ve been dreaming about, I spoke to Wendy Iles, founder of the Iles Formula. As one of the industry’s most respected hairdressers and an expert on damaged hair, she told me all about the benefits and limits of using essential oils for thicker hair.

Feature Image by Riley Reed.

What are essential oils?

According to Iles, “Essential oils are oils that have been distilled and not tampered with. Pure virgin oils, often found in perfumes that are directly extracted from the plant.” From skincare to diffusers, they’re mostly known for their fragrances. However, essential oils also have medicinal qualities. When applied topically or with carrier oils, they have great powers of healing and beauty. Essential oils for thicker hair work by clearing away residue, eradicating dandruff, stimulating blood flow, and increasing hydration to your thirsty strands. They’re not the be-all-end-all, but they boost efforts in your quest for longer, healthier hair.

Which essential oils promote hair growth?

Different essential oils have different benefits. The best products combine more than one to take advantage of each of their anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, detoxifying, and invigorating qualities.

Rosemary: Rosemary oil is one of the most effective essential oils for stimulating blood flow to create new cells for fuller and thicker hair.

Cedarwood: Cedarwood works to balance the natural oils in your scalp. It keeps your scalp full of good oils and uses its antifungal properties to keep your scalp healthy to make way for longer, thicker hair.

Lavender: Lavender essential oil can have physical and emotional effects on hair growth. While reducing inflammation for a healthier scalp, it also has calming properties which can prevent future, stress-related hair loss.

Peppermint: You know how a peppermint patty leaves a tingling feeling in your mouth? Peppermint essential oil does the same when applied topically. It promotes blood flow and circulation to the follicles (hence the tingling) to speed up hair growth and density.

Tea Tree: Tea Tree oil is known for its healing properties, which are as effective on your scalp as they are on your face. It refreshes your scalp, clearing away dead skin cells and excess product to make room for increased hair growth.

Bergamot: Bergamot isn’t just the scent in one of my favorite fragrances, it’s an anti-microbial essential oil that promotes a healthy scalp, and therefore, hair growth.

Orange: Vitamin C is as powerful in your hair as it is on your face. Orange essential oil helps to restore the moisture content and keeps the balance of the skin’s pH level.

Sweet Basil: For increased volume, try Sweet Basil oil for more robust strands with higher hydration.

Lemongrass: Known for reducing dandruff, lemongrass oil does more than that. It also strengthens hair shafts for thicker, more resilient hair. 

Thyme: Thyme is one of the best essential oils for thicker hair. It’s often used to treat hair loss and hair thinning, making for a powerful addition to any hair treatment.

How to use essential oils to thicken or grow hair?

If you want to use pure essential oils to aid your hair growth journey, I fully support you. They’re highly potent, so a few drops go a long way. Add your essential oils of choice to a carrier oil and try your luck.

However, not everyone is built for homemade mixtures and DIY salt scrubs. An easier alternative? Find products that include essential oils. Take this recommendation from Iles: “Apply to the scalp area and massage in. Pure oils may deliver greasiness, so it’s better in my opinion to use a tincture like a liquid that resembles a more water-like consistency.”

That’s an easier way to get more elegant formulas, without the hassle. Many clean beauty products load up on essential oils for their fragrant and nourishing qualities. This dual benefit makes them easy to spot in some of your soon-to-be favorite hair growth products and treatments.

What other ingredients help with hair growth?

There are two FDA-approved ingredients in prescription and over-the-counter products for hair growth: minoxidil and finasteride. According to Healthline, “Minoxidil is thought to work by partially enlarging hair follicles and lengthening the hair’s growth phase. Finasteride works by decreasing the amount of the hormone dihydrotestosterone (DHT) in your body.”

Other growth-boosting ingredients can either be applied to your hair, or taken orally through supplements. Biotin is a well-loved ingredient for strengthening hair and nails, as are other favorites like zinc, iron, and collagen. Some popular skincare ingredients you might recognize are also surprisingly good at promoting longer and thicker hair. Think Niacin (as in niacinamide) or caffeine, which energize and brighten your face just as much as they do your follicles.

What ingredients damage hair?

People are waking up to the negative effects of ingredients that are often found in low-quality hair products. Sulfates and Phthalates are finally getting the bad rap they deserve… but what exactly are they? In short, they’re aggressive chemicals that do work to clear away oils, but don’t discriminate between good oils and bad ones. Therefore, they can be stripping and leave your locks listless in the long run. Not ideal.

Other ingredients to avoid are parabens, synthetic fragrances, and denatured alcohols. Iles also advises being wary of anything that coats the hair shaft with residue: “One needs to be aware of conditioners that overload hair with protein, keratin, and most scientific blends that coat the hair shaft. This causes drastic breakage.”

Luckily, essential oils are good replacements for synthetic fragrances, leaving a pleasant scent without the negative, drying effects. They’re also natural detoxification agents and anti-microbial ingredients, so no need for alcohols or parabens either. If you’re ready to start incorporating essential oils into your hair, get ready. Keep scrolling for the top hair products and treatments that feature essential oils!